I knew we were in for a visual fest when we received an invitation to join our friend Masa to visit a garden at the Daitoku-ji that is only open to the public for a short time in the spring and autumn.
It’s been a glorious few weeks. A streak of fine weather prolonged sakura season and the warmth prompted other spring flowers to swiftly come into bloom. I’m always awed by the urgency of spring. The Japanese maple trees were barren a few short weeks ago when we arrived. Now they all are displaying their bright green new leaves of spring. Pops of azalea blossoms and best- of- all -Chinese peonies are vie for attention too.
Obaii-in was built in the 1500’s at the direction of a very wealthy family as a memorial to their deceased father. It’s way off the beaten tourist path so we had it almost all to ourselves with the exception of a few eagle eyed staff who roamed the grounds, knowing all too well, I’m certain, that people like me pose a real challenge to their rules.
I was dismayed to see a very visible “no photography” sign at the entrance of the temple. However, I was unable to restrain myself, nor did I try very hard when inspired, from taking photos of the splendid buildings and gardens. An attentive staff member spotted me and my iphone at one point and walked over to politely but sternly admonish me. From that point on we played a game of cat and mouse with each other. She seemed to lurk around every one of the many corners, while I adeptly looked around to see if she was in sight, before quickly taking my photos and slipping my phone into my jacket pocket.
I know not to take photos of sacred altars, but my bad-ass teen age self emerged in full power when restricted from taking a photo of the buildings or the gardens. I easily decided to disregard such an admonition and my sweet friend fortunately did not discourage me. The gardens were practically begging to be photographed. Each corner turned revealed a new vision of the spring life force as well as the simple beauty of Japanese design.
As the Japanese do so well because of the influence of the tea ceremony, the layout of the grounds and gardens are fashioned to reveal only small parts of the entire scene at a time. This slows down visitors and invites them to examine more closely what is immediate as well as to anticipate what surprises and delights might lie around the next bend in the pathway.
Obai-in contains a dry landscape garden covered with moss, designed by the most celebrated tea master Sen-no – Rikyu. The placement of the stones is symbolic.
What a wonderful visit. I felt my brain waves realign themselves while in that space. Kyoto offers an endless vault of these sort of experiences for which I will always be grateful. Despite the fact that I’m allergic to cats.